Christmas Eve

Christmas Eve, 2006

Christmas, especially Christmas Eve, in Puerto Rico is a time to be with families. Whole extended families gather for big parties with food, drink and presents.

Although – or maybe because – we are the new kids in the neighborhood, we were invited to our neighbor’s family Christmas Eve party. This family owns much of the land around us so we were quite honored to be invited.

Four generations, more than 50 people related by blood or marriage, children, grandchildren, great-grandchildren, gathered to celebrate. In many ways this was a pleasantly very casual affair, especially compared to Christmas parties in the states. A few people dressed up but most were casual. Except for Beba, the matriarch of the family. Beba looked fine. But then this amazing woman always does.

In the short ride to Waldo and Eddie’s house we passed a dozen similar parties. Tables for 20 or 50 or more are set up in small yards, under tents or in driveways. Music pours from stereos and boomboxes (yet we saw only a few people dancing; for some reason we expected to see more). People were eating and drinking, adults probably on the way to getting drunk, but less obviously so than at many state-side parties. Houses are lit up like, well, Christmas. Along some streets you can see where neighbors compete for the highest electric bill.

Food is of course the central gathering point around which many parties revolve. At the party we went to, there were three whole roast turkeys, fresh, homemade bacalaitos (salt cod fritters – yum!), fresh warm pan (bread), rice and beans, and for dessert, the absolute best flan de vanilla and flan de queso we have ever tasted.

The family exchanged gifts and then, what to my wondering eyes should appear, but Santa (but without his reindeer) with gifts for everyone.

When we first arrived, we were treated like honored guests. By the end of our evening (theirs was still going strong) we were just part of the family. It was a beautiful evening.

Christmas Day we’re invited to another family party, this time with one of our SCUBA dive leaders.

Feliz navidad!