January 25 - the 35th Day of Winter

(this is the first of a bunch of "catch-up" posts)

As one of my surfer friends said, "It's a pretty slow season when everybody gets excited about a head-high swell."

We got a little surf bump, not as big as the surf sites were predicting but enough to get all the surf-starved surfers excited and out taking advantage of it. I managed to get out for an early start. My reward for getting out early? I got photos of two friends I almost never get photos of.

Local surf legend Mike Shand is an early surfer. He usually has his surf session in before there is enough light for me to shoot. Frequently we pass each other, Mike done and coming out and me just getting to the beach. But on this day he surfed late and I got there early.

Tim Cannon is another 0-Dark-30 surfer. Tim usually gets in the water in the dark. I managed to catch a few photos of his last wave of the day, just before the sun came up.