Thursday, April 30, 2015

Watercolor of another cathedral


I doubt Medieval cathedral architects had access to underwater caves for inspiration but submarine caverns certainly could have inspired them.

The reef in front of our beach is like Swiss cheese: it is riddled with holes and little (and some not so little) tunnels and passages called swim-throughs. Many/most are open to the surface. The sunlight streaming in is like sunlight pouring through the stained glass of a cathedral. The water changes the color of the light with different depths and distance. Divers' bubbles react with the light. It is a magical spiritual place. 


 These photos are from two of the most beautiful dives I've ever done. first at Shacks - right out our front door - and then at Natural.

For much of the year Shacks, which faces due north into the winter waves, is just too rough to safely dive. But when it's good, Shacks is a beautiful dive. Yesterday was an exceptional day: 80-to-100 foot visibility, no waves and no surge, no current, clean, clear, warm, as close to perfect as it gets. Quite a first-ever diver for our new friends, father-and-son, Jeff and Jack.
 

Our second dive at Natural was every bit as good. Natural has a penchant for butt-kickin' south currents, especially in the summer. We expected to get caught in one of those currents and we were prepared: we planned to do a drift dive three-quarters of a mile to Wishing Well. Once again, Natural threw us a hooking, sinking, sliding curve. Not only was it not ripping from the south, there was a slight north current. Again, as perfect as it gets: clean, clear, warm and mostly free ride home on that north current.

As you've probably figured out, I love to scuba dive. I'm quickly approaching 300 dives. This day and these two dives are stand outs.

(And just to add and exclamation point to the day, we took the horses swimming just before sunset. What a day!)

Wednesday, April 29, 2015

Michigan winter light on the beach


This morning the light on the beach reminded me of winter light in Michigan. I used to call it "a platinum grey dawn:" weak sunlight straining through high hazy snow clouds. Only here it's not snow clouds. It's dust from the Sahara Desert.

Every year in the sprig and summer Trade Winds blow sust from the Sahara eastward across the Atlantic and right at Puerto Rico. Right now the dust ball is huge. Estimates based on satellite images are this cloud is the size of the continental U.S.

Besides hazy skies the dust cloud does a couple of things. It holds heat in during the day, pushing us to near record high temperatures. Second, the cloud actually shades the ocean waters between here and the west coast of Africa. The shade keeps the water temperatures as much as 5 degrees cooler than they would be otherwise. The desert air carrying the dust is very dry. These two factors - the cooler water temperatures and the dry air - help inhibit the formation of tropical storms off the coast of Africa. Fewer, less intense tropical storms reduces the chances of a major damaging hurricane.

It never ceases to amaze me how interconnected every thing is. Until I move here, I never would have guess a dust storm in the Sahara Desert would have any impact on a hurricane in the Gulf of Mexico.

Saturday, April 25, 2015

Calorcito pa'l Corazon



A trip to the emergency room anywhere can be and frequently is traumatic. In Puerto Rico, where tropical weather mean people are often dressed in shorts, tank tops and flip flops without time or opportunity to change or bring warm clothes, it can be even more difficult because people are not only injured, sick or helping someone else who is, they are also COLD. Emergency rooms are kept at low temperatures to keep bacteria and germs at bay, waiting time for admission can sometimes take a few days, and loved ones feel they cannot leave patients because they want to be sure they are aware of all the information from doctors and know what care has taken place.

In June 2014, Elaine visited a friend in the emergency room at Aguadilla Buen Samaritano Hospital and noticed an elderly woman in a corner bed who had wrapped herself in a plastic shower curtain - apparently the only thing she had with her - and was shivering. Although she had a younger woman with her, that woman also looked very cold. Having been in a similar situation herself the previous year, Elaine offered the woman her sweatshirt and a pair of warm socks. This gift was received with tears of gratitude. An idea was born - a community group who would collect and take blankets and warm clothing - free - to people in the emergency room.

To clearly understand this, I need to point out some differences between the medical system in Puerto Rico and that in the States. First, as mentioned above, ERs and hospitals are kept at quite chilly temperatures to keep down bacteria. While there is both public and private insurance, the medical system here is not driven by insurance companies and insurance payments; costs are lower here than in the States. Hospitals do not have huge laundry facilities for sheets, blankets and towels. While this helps keep costs down, it means patients and their families must provide their own linens.

Emergency rooms are different here as well. In the States, the goal is to get patients out of the ER as quickly as possible, either treated and released or admitted. In Puerto Rico a patient can remain in the ER for up to several days depending on treatment needs. Also, unlike the in the States where patients and families are separated at the treatment room door, patients here usually have one or more family members with them the whole time.

From the humble beginning of a gift of a sweatshirt and socks, the group Calorcito Pa'l Corazon (Warmth for the Heart) began. In August, 2014, the group held their first meetings and fundraiser at Limoi Lounge and received generous donations of cash (used for printing, purchase of needed delivery supplies, and more blankets) more than 20 new and used blankets, 150 new pairs of socks, and a variety of gently used warm clothing. Within less than two months the group had grown to over 30 volunteers and donations had reached the point where regular visits to the local hospitals could start.

Twice a week starting last October, volunteers take new and gently used blankets, warm clothing and pairs of new socks to Buen Samaritano Hospital in Aquadilla and San Carlos Hospital in Moca. Volunteers all have identity cards and pass out information cards to recipients explaining the purpose of the group and letting them know items are free, but they are welcome to re-donate them once they have finished using them. Each time people are so grateful to receive help with staying warm. In some cases, people have been in the emergency room for more than 24 hours without clothing or blankets to stay warm.

One older woman, who has cancer and is unfortunately a frequent visitor in the emergency room, was moved to tears when she was given warm pants, socks and a sheet. She then went on to tell others that the Calorcito Pa'l Corazon volunteers were there and several more people came out to the waiting area to ask for and receive items of warmth.

Buen Samaritano at Aguadilla Hospital currently has a group of hospital volunteers, headed by Lisette Martinez, who work in the main hospital and who have welcomed the donations from Calorcito Pa'l Corazon (CPC) as well. In early October, Lisette was so happy to receive more than a dozen quilts and comforters. She told CPC that the volunteer group had been out of blankets for more than two months because their regular supplier did not have any in stock. At San Carlos Hospital in Moca, there is no volunteer group and so CPC has been welcomed as a much needed service to people arriving at the emergency room there.

CPC held a fundraiser at Ola Lola's earlier this month. Thanks to the generosity - and despite the only rain in nearly six weeks - we raised over $1,000, one-third of the budget for the year.

Huge thanks to all the volunteers and community supporters. You've helped make people's lives a little better


Thursday, April 23, 2015

In the Cathedral

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ola-lolas/sets/72157651967437816/

I've had this photo under the mooring piers at Crashboat Beach in mind for a long time. Under the piers has always seemed like a cathedral to me and I've tried to capture that feeling. I have couple of other attempts but they aren't what I was looking for. This one is the best, the closest (so far) to the photo in my mind's eye.

The photo finally came together on a perfect 100-foot visibility day with the new fisheye lens for my underwater camera. I've known for a while that I wanted a wider-angle lens for underwater work but I didn't know how much I wanted one until I saw some of my freind and dive buddy Darryl's photos. At that point, I had to have one.

The new lens is everything I hoped it would be and really, more. I love it. And having 100-foot visibility helps the shot too.

:You can see more from this dive and photo shoot on our Flickr page. Take a look. And enjoy!

Thursday, April 02, 2015

Why I will never have an aquarium



This beautiful little creature went missing, stolen by poachers. When a local diver, my good friend and dive buddy,  approached the poachers, they attacked him with a machete, all in broad daylight, in front of witnesses. Fortunately the diver was not injured but the poachers destroyed nearly $500 worth of camera gear because they thought he took a photo of their vehicle and license plate. (Fortunately someone else did get a photo the vehicle and license and posted them online.)

Why?

The obvious answer is the poachers were doing something illegal and wanted to protect their identity. But why were they poaching in the first place?

Salt water aquariums are a big business. While many, maybe even most, aquarium owners and dealers and suppliers are honest and aboveboard, some are not. Some owners want exotic or endangered species that are illegal. Some dealers try to get by on the cheap knowing they'll pay poachers less then legitimate suppliers.And where there is a market, there will always be someone to  fill it.

I told an acquaintance who works for the DRNA (the Puerto Rican Department of Natural Resources) about the incident at Crashboat and asked him why the DRNA didn't do more about poaching. His response was the DRNA is supposed to have someone at Crashboat all day every day but they are too short-handed to keep someone there. While that is possibly true, all too often I see too many DRNA agents who won't get out of their air-conditioned SUVs to actually DO asomething about anything.

Poaching is not just a problem here in Puerto Rico. In Hawaii in May, 2014, a woman, who worked for an organization that wants to totally ban harvesting sea life for aquariums, was scuba diving off Maui and recording the work of presumably legitimate aquarium suppliers gathering sea life. One of those divers attacked her and ripped the air supply regulator from her mouth.

And don't even get me started on deer poaching in Michigan or elephant tusks in Afirca!

Aquariums can also be a source of unintended consequences. When I first started snorkeling and diving here almost 10 years ago, we didn't know what a lionfish was. Now we see this destructive invasive species on nearly every dive and even snorkeling in the shallows.


They are beautiful feathery fish, very popular in aquariums. But lionfish, which can live for up to 15 years, are native to the western Pacific Ocean, not the Atlantic and Caribbean. They arrived here courtesy of an aquarium in Florida destroyed during Hurricane Andrew in 1992. Now they are all over the Atlantic coast, islands and throughout the Caribbean and Central America. All because of an aquarium spill.

I am fully aware of and freely admit how fortunate we are to live 300 meters from a spectacular living natural aquarium.


 And I do spend as much time as possible in our various "octopus's gardens."


And that is yet another reason I could never have an aquarium: After hanging out with these creatures in their homes, I could never confine them to a tiny tank in mine.




Friday, March 06, 2015

Welcome back to me


So where have I been for almost two months? Here. It's been a busy couple of months! There's the usual -

some pretty amazing surfing...


incredible scuba diving...



The best place to see the best of our photos is on Flickr. There are nearly 7,000 photos. They are all arranged in albums. Want to see surf photos? Click on "albums" and look for surf. Want to see underwater photos? In "albums" look for scuba and snorkeling photos. They are all there.)

several horse training clinics with our new friend Chris...


(and then putting the training into practice on our own!)

Entertaining visitors...


(Our friends Dunja and Jose were here for a month from Switzerland. Elaine was in heaven - she and Dunja rode just about every day.)

And there is the business - it's been very busy (for which we are grateful!). Taxes - the PR government changes things it seems like every day. Licenses - 'tis the season to renew our license and all our permits. Sometimes I can't believe how much time that all takes.

Basically, I've been busily lazy. Lots and lots to write about but I just haven't made the time. But there's new stuff, some of it already here, some comin' 'round the corner and I need to write about it. Please stay tuned.

Monday, January 26, 2015

A pretty good day


Yesterday was a pretty good day - scuba diving in the morning...


then a great ride on the beach...


then a sunset run on the beach with the dogs.

Not bad. Not bad at all.

Wednesday, January 21, 2015

More visitors


Monday we had more visitors, this time from the mainland. Our friends Pat and John Pawlak from Kalamazoo were on the island and came for a visit. Pat and John were our neighbors in our 'hood in K'zoo. Their children gave them a week in a resort in San Juan but they managed to break away from all that relaxing to come to our side of the island.

We gave them a whirlwind tour of some of our beaches Jobos, Bano de la Princessa -


Crashboat
 and more.

Pat is fascinated by graffiti. As we were riding and talking, she wondered if there a school or training for graffiti artists. We don't know about anywhere else, but there is a graffiti art school here. For years a local artist has been teaching art by painting huge murals on the side of an abandoned warehouse. So we took Pat and John to the only graffiti art school we know of.


They said they enjoyed our side of la isla more than San Juan Metro, that the west is more their style. We couldn't agree more. They will be back and we'll have more time to show them more of our beautiful Isla del Encanto.

Tuesday, January 20, 2015

A weekend of weddings


This has been a weekend for weddings. I am privileged to work with Ashley Wright of PR Destination Weddings. We had two weddings this weekend.

First there was a sunrise ceremony with Brenda and Darryl at Puerta del Mar overlooking Crashboat Beach.

Then we met Andy and Brenda on the beach at Royal Isabela for their wedding.


They were very different affairs but both were beautiful and casual and laid-back, just the way an island wedding should be.

 On Monday evening the magic of Ola Lola's got to Hector and he decided this was the time and the place. He proposed to Jenny. Of course she said yes!


Congratulations to all three couples! Thank you for sharing a bit of your special time with us. We wish you nothing but the best.


Thursday, January 15, 2015

Marti


I can see her face and hear her voice like she's right here beside me. I can't believe it's been 10 years since she left us.

Marti, we miss you every minute, every day.

Friday, January 09, 2015

First dive of the new year


The first dive of the new year was supposed to be on the first day of the new year but that didn't work out. I had to wait until last night, more that a week, for the first dive. But it was a good one - a night dive at Natural with Darryl and our friend Wade.

This is a Giant Basket Starfish - Astrophyton muricatum. During the day they fold themselves up into a small spot on the side of a barrel sponge. At night they unfold until they resemble a radar antenna. They feed by filtering sea water. This thing really is a starfish, related to the brittle starfish. Amazing creatures! Oh - they can live to be 35 years old!

I love scuba diving!

Tuesday, January 06, 2015

Feliz dia de Reyes


Happy Three Kings Day - Feliz dia de Reyes in Spanish.

Today, January 6, is also known as Epiphany and Twelfth Night. In the biblical birth story this is the day the three kings or wise men or magi arrived in Bethlehem with gifts for the baby Jesus.

In Puerto Rico, as in many Latin American cultures, el dia de reyes is actually bigger holiday than Christmas Day. Many families reserve the "big" presents for today rather than on Christmas Day.

The Three Kings are iconic in local art. Nearly every home has some representation of the kings on display year round.

Three Kings Day marks the almost-end of the Christmas season in Puerto Rico. Almost.

Sunday, January 04, 2015

First sunset of the new year

(Okay, I'm  little late with this post since it January 4th already.)


We took our friend Hazel to Crashboat to watch the first sunset of the year. Hazel is visiting from the UK and has been here for nearly two weeks. We haven't written much about her visit. For one thing, she doesn't like having her picture taken. And, we have been so busy with Ola Lola's we have had little time to take her anywhere. We're lucky she's happy sitting on the beach reading.

But we did get to Crashboat in time for a lovely sunset.


And she did get to see the Pelican Whisperer.


This guy comes to Crashboat and feeds the pelicans. But not just feeds them. He talks to them and they respond to him. They wait their turn. He tells one to move off the post - and the bird moves. He turns round to another one and waves him up onto the post. He gets them to sit, to fly, to jump, to swim, all on command. It's really fascinating to watch. I'll try to get video of him next time.

Not a bad way to start a new year.

Saturday, January 03, 2015

3,000 Peanut Butter Burgers



With horns blowing, confetti flying and Kool and the Gang celebrating the good times, last night Ola Lola Garden Bar had practically a parranda to celebrate our 3,000th Peanut Butter Burger! Who'da thunk it? Congratulations, Carmen Villanueva and her husband Carlos Marin Vargas! Cash money, a standup paddle board tour for two courtesy of Verde Azul, chocolate, champagne - it was a GREAT night! This was Carmen and Carlos's second visit to Ola Lola's but the first time they tried the Peanut Butter Burger (they loved it, by the way)! Thank you, everyone, for helping us reach this milestone.

We know it sounds weird - peanut butter on a burger? - but this is one of those times where the way the flavors come together is almost magical.


So now we're on our way to the next milestone - whatever we decide that is!

Friday, December 26, 2014

10 years after


On December 26, 2004, a devastating tsunami hit Thailand. As the news broke, we were at sea, on a cruise through the Caribbean. We even got the news on board the ship.

Three days later we got married on a Caribbean island.

Five nights after the tsunami struck, on New Year's Eve, we were sailing back toward Puerto Rico. As the clock moved toward midnight and the toll in lives and property in Thailand continued to rise, I confess the thought occurred to me - was I the only one on this cruise ship who had seen The Posidon Adventure? That was a movie about cruise ship that was capsized by a giant tidal wave just before midnight on New Year's Eve.

I meant - and mean - no disrespect for the people and victims of the tsunami in Thailand. The tragedy was huge - and very scary.

Thailand is rebuilding. And our cruise ship survived New Year's Eve.

3,000 peanut butter burgers?!?


This weekend? Maybe. If not this weekend, then next weekend for sure. It all depends on you. Are you going to help us get to 3,000?

Three THOUSAND peanut butter burgers.

Wow! Who'd a thunk it?

Thursday, December 25, 2014

Merry Christmas


It's been a wonderful Christmas - a wonderful dinner last night with friends, Christmas morning Skyping with the grandkids (almost as good as being there) then a wonderful dinner at home with more friends.

We hope your holiday has been equally wonderful.

Merry Christmas!

Wednesday, December 24, 2014

Sargassum returns

 

Sargassum - a brown seaweed - has washed up up on our beach for the last few days. We don't really know where it comes from. There are rumors it is disturbed by fishing trawlers passing out at sea. I don't know.

What I do know is that even though we've seen sargassum on our beaches before, we've never seen this much or seen it last this long. It's coming in waves. Fresh seaweed washes ashore even as yesterday's and the day before's change color as they dry in the sun. It is piled up in ridges like brown snowdrifts two or three feet high. It stretches all along the north shore. Fortunately it doesn't wrap around to the beaches in the west, Crashboat, Natural, etc.

We'll see how long this lasts.




 

Tuesday, December 23, 2014

Por fin - buceando! (Diving at last!)


 As I wrote before, it has been a great fall for surf but at the expense of diving. That - fortunately! - came to an end this week. We've been diving three out of the last four days.

The waves have been down, at least around the corner, so the "west" has been good. There hasn't been rain in the mountains for a couple of days so there is nothing washing down the rivers and visibility is getting better.

We've been to the reef at Natural all three times, expecting to get the strong current from the south. We've parked one truck at Wishing Well thinking we would do the drift dive. This week has been a great example of why you don't take anything for granted at Natural. Saturday we had  a gentle but noticeable north current. Sunday we started drifting on a south current and thought "ah! Here it is." About halfway to Wishing Well the current turned to the north. So we turned and headed back to Natural, drifting the other way. We were almost back to Natural when the current shifted back to south so the last little bit was a kick back. Today, it was north all the way, strong enough that we nearly overshot our landmark to turn to shore.

But it as been wonderful getting back in the water! It looks like we have the rest of this week and then another big swell comes in on Saturday. Right now we're planning dives Christmas morning and Friday morning. Then it's back to surf.

But I have some good photos to remember this lull by.





 



Tuesday, December 16, 2014

Surf Surf Surf!


It has been all surf all the time this fall. After one of the worst surf seasons in memory last year, this fall has been rippin'! I've taken more surf photos in October, November and so far in December than I did all of last season (October to April). And honestly, it's some of the best work I've ever done.

Of course all that great surf comes at a price. I haven't been snorkeling or diving in nearly six weeks. The last time was in early November, nice easy dive at Natural. Since then, between the waves and the bad visibility caused by lots of rain - nada.


The other price I pay for all this great surf photography is time. I go out for two or three hours of shooting and come back with 600 images to post process and edit and then post on the website. Then I edit them again to put the best-of-the-best on Flickr. It all adds up to a lot of time sitting in front of a computer. I'm not complaining - I love it! But it is part of the reason I haven't written more here.

You can see all my surf photography on our website, www.puertoricosurfphoto.com. If you want the "readers digest" version, check out our Flickr site. We are up to just over 6,500 photos on Flickr that cover pretty much our whole Puerto Rican adventure.

Today it's rainy and windy so no photography. I'm off to the weekly shopping for Ola Lola's.

Friday, December 05, 2014

Criollo Thanksgiving dinner


It's a week after Thanksgiving and I'm grateful for LEFTOVERS! This is the first time I got to try our criollo Thanksgiving from last week's specials. Pavo-chon - turkey seasoned the way the local lechon asado (roast pork) is made. Arroz y gandules - Elaine's most excellent first attempt at this local criollo rice-and-beans staple. Batatas y amarillos - batatas are the local sweet potatoes, milder and not as intense as American sweet potatoes. Amarillos are ripe plantains. Elaine roasted the two together and tossed them with just a hint of cayenne pepper. And lastly, homemade cranberry sauce, my only contribution to the feast. 

As one of our Ola Lola's specials it is the most criollo meal we've offered at Ola Lola's. We made a conscious decision at the very beginning that we weren't going to do criollo. There are so many wonderful criollo cooks and criollo restaurants nearby. We felt - and still feel - we should let others do what they do best and we'll do our thing. 

However, Elaine certainly proved she can do criollo with the best of them. Was there ever really any doubt?

Wednesday, December 03, 2014

Sick sucks

Being sick anywhere sucks. Being sick on a tropical island sucks more. Elaine is finally shaking the chicungunya virus but we both have acquired a respirtory "thing" that's going around. Fever, yo-yo-ing temperature, cough, a complete energy drain...this SUCKS!

Haven't been able to spend any time with the horses. Running the dogs on the beach has been short and sporadic. Haven't been out photographing surfers all week. Because of ocean conditions - rough, wavy, and poor visibility because of lots of rain - I haven't been diving in TWO MONTHS!

Okay, I'm not really whining. After all, it's still 81 degrees. There is no snow in our forecast. And while surf forecasts are for fair-to-middling surf through the weekend, it looks like great surf mid-week next week.


We're looking forward to felling better and to great surf! And to diving again soon. I miss it!

Friday, November 28, 2014

No "black" Friday here

  

Nothing "black" about Friday here in Ola Lola's neighborhood! We are surrounded by a stunning tropical palette of greens - from translucent jade to turquoise to the light in the depths of an emerald, of blues - from the paleness of a star sapphire to deep-ocean cobalt, of sparkling whites, all under this blazing clear Caribbean sun. 

We are so grateful that we get to live in and share this amazing place. We are constantly awed by the beauty and the wonder of the world around us.

Come hang out with us a while. 

Thursday, November 27, 2014

Thanksgiving Day

From Elaine:

To all my friends and family - near and far - just know I love and appreciate you soooo much on this Thanksgiving day! I am dealing with chikungunya still and in the past 24 hours some new virus has found my depressed immune system so it's been less than pleasant to say the least. And I don't normally post this kind of personal info but there are people I have wanted to write, call, talk with, be with and reach out to who may wonder where I am. And, well....I'm here and just trying to get through what's directly in front of me, and being very very grateful for all the help I have received from my love, John Cosby and friends who have been so supportive, shared in my pains, given me many moments of humor, and helped me see rainbows when it just felt like rain.

(Chicungunya is the latest tropical mosquito-born virus to hit the Caribbean. It was first discovered in Tanzania in 1952 but was mostly confined to Africa. The first confirmed case in the Caribbean was in St. Thomas in 2013. Since then, in a little over a year, it has swept through the Caribbean and most of Central America. Estimates are 800,000 to 1 million people in the Caribbean have or have had it. It is rarely fatal but is incredibly debilitating. Although the fever phase is relatively mild and short, other effects can last for weeks, months or even a year. The disease mostly affects the joints. Descriptions range from "having ground glass in all my joints" to "being pounded by sledge hammers every time I move." Elaine is in her ninth week of this crap.)

Still, there is so much to be grateful for - family, friends, our home, our animal "family." From here on our little island we wish a very happy and grateful Thanksgiving.


Thursday, November 20, 2014

More vistors from St Lucia


So it has been a busy month since our last post. I really do apologize for the delay. I've started bits and pieces of posts but for one reason or another haven't seemed to finish them. Not that there is nothing to write about mind you - there is always a lot going on. It's just finding the time and motivation to make it happen.

Two of Elaine's friends and colleagues, Wendy and Marie, from St Lucia came to visit in October. We, and especially Elaine - spent a bit of time showing them around our island.

It's always interesting comparing thoughts and impressions with visitors from other islands.  I think for many the phrase "Caribbean island" conjures up stereotypical images - white sand beaches, tropical drinks, fabulous hotels, rain forests. And I think there is there is and impression that "Caribbean islands" are all pretty much the same. Honestly, they are not.

For example, Puerto Rico is unusual in that it is not a volcanic island like Dominica or St Lucia. It is rather a limestone uplift, caused by the North American tectonic plate sliding under the Puerto Rican or Caribbean plate. We, that is Puerto Rico, sit right near the edge of that plate. Because of the tectonic activity we have a number of relatively small earthquakes around us practically everyday. Most of them we don't feel but occasionally one shakes the buildings. (One occurred in the middle of the night two years ago. With the memory of the tsunami in Japan still fresh, people living down here near the ocean fled, trying to get "up the mountain" to higher ground. There were so many people trying to drive up the hill there was a traffic jam at 2:30 in the morning. And really, there was no danger of a tsunami: that terremoto, like most of the ones we feel, happened inland, not in the ocean.)

Then there is the perception of size. As small as Puerto Rico is (111 miles by 39 miles, the smallest of the Greater Antilles), it is larger than any of the islands down the chain. Puerto Rico is big enough that it doesn't feel like an island, although people do get island fever and have to get off to the mainland U.S. St Lucia feels like an island. It is very small, less that 300 square miles. Because it is a volcanic island, the interior of St Lucia is very rugged, very steep and impassable so most of the living space is concentrated around the edges, making it seem even smaller.

And then there's shopping. A lot of mainlanders just have to get off the island to shop. They just cannot find anything here. This in spite of the presence of Plaza Las Americas, the largest shopping mall in the Caribbean, outlet malls, malls in Mayaguez and Ponce and and and. A lot of statesiders, both visitors and those of us who live here, bemoan the lack of selection in grocery stores, especially fresh produce. There is something to this complaint:fresh produce is less plentiful here than in the States.

But for visitors from other islands like St Lucia, Puerto Rico is a shopping heaven. In fact, one of the major goals for Marie and Wendy's trip to PR was to shop for thing they cant get in St Lucia.

Celebrating differences is part of why we travel and why we choose to live outside our comfort zones.