Friday, December 28, 2018

MARIA log December 28 Day 96 Thursday

Thursday, December 26, day 96

A bit of rain overnight, cloudy but no rain during the day. I'm kind of obsessed with rain. Too little and we don't have any to capture in case we lose water again. Too much and we could lose water; every day there is a flash flood advisory in case the Guajataca dam breaks.

Took care of the horses, took Oz for his walk on the beach. Finally got the mud cleaned off the east deck of the bar - it's only been three months. Got the front differential on the truck fixed. Just another day in paradise. Until...

We were watching yet another sappy Hallmark Christmas movie. As we get near the end of these movies, to try to keep Rolf awake, we started saying, "Rolf! Here comes the kissing part. You like the kissing part. Here comes the kissing."

Tonight Rolf was awake and really didn't need the prompting but we did it anyway. The couple on the sceen kissed and - Rolf moved so he could put his arm around Carole, leaned over, and kissed her!

We were both astounded! Carole got teary-eyed and said, "He hasn't done that for so long!"

I can watch a lot of sappy Hallmark movies if that is the result. Merry Christmas - what a gift!



NOW: December 28, 2018 - Blustery with gusts up to 30 mph overnight and today. Some light rain both through the night and off and on during the day. Clouds blast in with the wind and then part leaving patches of sunshine then slam shut again. I'm still obsessed with rain, now because the horse pastures really need it. We've had no significant rain for over a month and things are dry. The fields we've already used for the horses need rain to come back.

This morning, like every morning now, I took Coda Bear for his beach walk. Elaine went with us this morning. That was  a nice change.


I love the colors in the water!

Thursday, December 27, 2018

MARIA log December 27 Day 95 Wednesday

Wednesday, December 27 day 95


Today was a "little thing" kind of a day. I finished a bunch of little things around the house - fixed a closet door, fixed a window shutter, things like that., then took Oz for his walk on the beach

The day started off with blue skies and big white puffy clouds. Then suddenly, out of no where - dark, grey, almost black and pelting driving rain. For about five minutes. Then as suddenly it was gone and back to blue skies.

This whole post-hurricane weather thing is weird.

Wednesday, December 26, 2018

MARIA log December 26 Day 94 Tuesday

Tuesday, December 26 day 94

Boxing Day.

Howling winds all night and occasional showers, but we were treated to another rainbow over the pasture.

I have no idea what the difference is but today Chocolate was great, easy to work with. Our workout was fabulous. Go figure.

We didn't take a box of goodies to anyone as is the British Boxing Day tradition, but we were treated to leftover Christmas ham. Oh, yum! Thank you (again!) Anna and Jeremy!

NOW: Hmmm...channeling last year. Had a good workout and a great ride with Chocolate. And tonight we're having leftover Christmas ham courtesy of Anna and Jeremy.

Also had a great walk/run on the beach with Coda Bear this morning. 


We've been going for a walk every day, usually to Playa Pastillo. We always liked Pastillo as a beach and as a place to run the dogs but it was kind of far away when we lived at Shacks (which of course we could walk to). Now it's our closest beach, our beach of choice. Coda Bear loves it - the ocean to play in, lots of new smells, lots of room, and, at least when we're there in the early morning, not many people.


Tuesday, December 25, 2018

NOW, December 25, 2018


Happy Holidays, Merry Christmas, Happy Solstice, whatever works for you. Celebrate them all, because they are all part of the wonder. May your day/year/life be filled with joy, peace and love. Ours certainly is.

 

Last night we gathered at Carole and Rolf's for Christmas Eve dinner. Tonight we'll be at Jeremy and Anna's for dinner. I've said it before and it's never been more true: I am so grateful for this extended family.

The lights are on and we celebrating!


MARIA log December 25 Day 93 Monday

Monday, December 25, day 93

A low-key Christmas Day, that started with a rainbow over the pasture. I tried to work Chocolate but he was having none of it. We're back to square one.

Wild ripping clouds and BIG winds (Ha! Ha, I say. That is NOT big wind!) all day but no rain.

Jeremy and Anna invited us for Christmas dinner. Oh, my! We cannot figure out how Anna does so much with a four-year old and a four-month old. It was an awesome wonderful evening.



 I am missing Elaine and the family so much more than I am missing lights. I am so grateful for this extended family here.

Merry Christmas, World!

Monday, December 24, 2018

MARIA log December 24, Day 92 Sunday

Sunday, December 24 day 92

Christmas Eve in the Caribbean - after a hurricane. It's pretty subdued overall, especially compared to "normal" (there's that word again) to Puerto Rico.

While Elaine shivers and watches snow fall in Cleveland, I finally said, "Enough waiting" and dove Crashboat. This was my first time diving alone, solo. Visibility wasn't bad, about 40 feet.

It's even crazier seeing it from below than from the surface It is a new wreck dive. Bits of rebar stick out randomly, waiting to snag the unwary. Bent twisted ripped I-beams have sharp edges waiting to cut and snag. I wrote earlier about ow much sand washed from the beach. Underwater you can see six feet of the remaining pier legs exposed when the sand washed away.







(Note from NOW: You can see more photos from this dive on Flickr.)

The incredible power of the ocean that could do this is absolutely mind-boggling.

Life is already returning. Schools of sargent-major fish, goatfish, barjacks and the occasional juvenile trumpet fish testify to that. I watched a courting pair of white-spotted file fish do their little dance. The sargent-majors must be nesting, laying eggs, because I saw them chasing a file fish away from a particular spot. They do that when they are protecting eggs.

More than just getting to see what's down there close up, it just felt good to be in the water, to have salt water on my skin. I miss it.

On this Christmas Eve without electricity we may not have all the usual Christmas lights, but we do have this:


Mother Nature put on an incredible sky show today.

Sunday, December 23, 2018

MARIA log December 23 Day 91 Saturday

Saturday, December 23 day 91


Strange day in the sky today: Sometimes heavy dark grey clouds spitting rain, sometimes sunshine and big white clouds. The sky put on a show all day.

I actually saw a guy from AEE (the electric company) today. He was "surveying meters, withes and poles in our area. I guess that puts us a little bit closer to having electricity restored.

NOW: Today is the kids last day here. I guess were heading for the beach. Kai has become quite the water boy. He loves snorkeling.


Saturday, December 22, 2018

NOW December 22 2018

Amy has been here for a week with Kennedy and Kai. This week has been pretty much about the grands.























No significant rain for nearly a month. It's very dry. The waterfall at Gozalandia wasn't much more than a trickle compared to what it usually is.

MARIA log December 22 Day 90 Friday

Friday, December 22, day 90

It rained last night. When we got to the pasture, KTJ was a mudball. It took two of us more than an hour to get her clean.


Marie decided not to dive today. She doesn't want to risk problems with her eyes until she sees the doctor. Probably a good thing we didn't go, considering how long it took to clean KTJ.

It was pretty much a horse day. Chocolate didn't want to come out of the tall grass for his afternoon feed. So I went in after him and rode him out bareback. Then we worked bareback for a bit.

It was a good horse day.

Friday, December 21, 2018

MARIA log December 21 Day 89 Thursday

A quick note: if you read yesterday's post, pleas o back and read it again. It was accidentally before it was complete.

Thursday, December 21 day89

Today is the solstice, that magical winter day when the darkness of the year begins to give way to the light.

Yesterday and today I had good workouts with Chocolate. for years we've had problems. I hope we've found a solution.

Went to Crashboat to check it out. Marie and I may dive there tomorrow. They've plowed a lot of sand and reclaimed some of the parking lot. They plowed the "Pay" side and cleaned up a lot of the debris so it's usable again. People are jumping off the pier despite the rebar and obstacles in the water.








Today's best moment: the cupey tree, the tree that grew up through the bar deck and up through the roof, the one we lost the top of during Maria - has new sprouts! New green leaves! There is hope!

No rain today.


Thursday, December 20, 2018

MARIA log December 20 Day 88 Wednesday

Wednesday, December 20, day 88

Ninety days without electricity. I wonder if anyone else counts the days.

I received a Christmas card from a friend today. In her note she says, "I hope you've recovered from the hurricane." It was a genuine heartfelt sentiment.

I responded, "We're like alcoholics and drug addicts - recovering, not recovered."

We say things like, "When things are back to normal..." What is "normal?" And how will we know we're back to it?

We only lost water for a couple of weeks; others were without water for months. Having fresh water readily available certainly is convenient, but does having it mean we're back to "normal?" Just about everyone I know - including me - is still filtering drinking water. Many people - again me included - still capture rain water. I use it mostly for cleaning, not for flushing toilets like we did before, but I still capture it. Is that "normal?" It is for now.

Communication, especially electronic communication, with the outside world is still spotty, uncertain. Sometimes good, sometimes bad, much of the time non-existent. Sometimes I will have three or four bars on my phone and then they fade to one - or none. Same place, same spot. I haven't moved.

There were photos from Houston of people using their cell phones to call for help from the roof tops of houses flooded by Hurricane Harvey. The first cell tower here wasn't up and running for nearly three weeks after Maria. Cell service is improving from nothing to something but it's a long way from "normal."

Internet too is illusive. Even those who have it have it sometimes. With no electricity I don't have Internet at home even though the cable that runs past our house was repaired. (I've been told Villa Montaña paid for that repair so they and their guests would have Internet.) Although Marie's neighborhood has electric, the cable repair crews haven't reached her street. I can get Wi-Fi at Carole's - if it's working. The cable company has free Wi-Fi out side their office by that's a 10-mile drive each way. Like the cell phone "hotspots," there are dozens of people parked, trying to connect.

I've written about this before: most of my "normal" activities are suspended. My photography is hugely dependent on computers and Internet. Snorkeling and diving are dependent on the ocean and the availability of air which in turn is dependent on electricity to run a compressor. Part of the joy of diving for me is taking photos of what I see and sharing those photos. Although I've taken photos - lots of photos! - since Maria, my options for sharing them are limited.

Even writing this: I want to share this journal, but...

Do you notice a common thread here? We are now three months without electricity So much of what I am missing - communication, computer, photos - depends on stable consistent electricity.

When we get electricity back, will that be or feel "normal?" I'm not so sure. Better, yes. But "normal?" Everyone of us here has been changed in some inexplicable, undefinable but fundamental way by this experience. Even those whose lives have returned to "normal." i.e., they have water, electricity, Internet access, gasoline, food, refrigeration, don't feel "normal." I think in part that has to do with knowing other people nearby still don't have all those "normal" things.

We're all kind of lost in limbo, waiting for something. On September 19 we were waiting for the hurricane to begin. Now we're waiting for it to end.

Today was a pretty "normal" day, at least in the current state of "normal:"
 - Got up in the dark
 - Made coffee
 - Fed the dog and the cat
 - Took the dog to the beach
 - Fed the horses
 - Sent good morning text to Elaine (for now I reception in the pasture)
 - Farrier came to trim the horses hooves and put new shoes on KTJ and Zip
 - Had a great workout with Chocolate in the afternoon
 - Had dinner with Carole and Rolf
 - Watched a sappy Hallmark Christmas romance - 'cause Rolf likes them
 - Blustery with passing showers overnight. Windy but sunny all day.


MARIA log December 19 Day 87 Tuesday

Tuesday, December 19 day 87

Twelve year ago we landed in PR to start this amazing adventure.

Today we got an incredible piece of news. Our daughter Amy works for American Greetings. It is still family-owned and very much family oriented. They have a fundraising committee that looks for  community service projects.

Every year at Christmas they choose a family in the community and provide a little extra help during the holidays. We learned today the committee decided to donate $500 to the Go-Fund-Me Amy started for us in the wake of Hurricane Maria. She had no idea this was coming.

What an amazing incredible unexpected gift! True it helps us personally but it also gives us a little room to help others.

We - Marie and I - worked with the horses today. They are out of shape, both mentally and physically. So am I for that matter.

The Christmas disconnect continues. Carole told me today that she feels guilty. I asked her what about. She said because she has a tree - with lights - and so many others on the island don't. I said, "True. But you're sharing you tree. With me for example. I'm one of those who won't have a tree or lights this year. That tree is the only one I have. You're sharing it with a precocious four-year-old. And it makes Rolf smile. And it makes you smile. Those are all good things."

Today's weather? Glad you asked. Gusty winds, bits of clouds and sun, passing showers.

Wednesday, December 19, 2018

MARIA log December 18 Day 86 Monday

Monday, December 18, day 86

 

I just opened my third notebook in this post-hurricane journal.

One week until Christmas.

Christmas in the Caribbean has always been a bit of a disconnect for those of us raised in the north.  So many of our Christmas traditions just don't translate here.

Take music for example. "Jingle Bells" is not really a winter song not a Christmas song but this is the only time of the year it get played. How do people who have never seen snow relate to a "one-horse open sleigh?" I get it - I actually rode in a one-horse open sleigh. But not in Puerto Rico.

Or "Winter Wonderland." We've cross-country skied through some amazing winter wonderlands. Here a "winter wonderland" is a tropical rainforest. Or a tropical reef.

One of our favorite Christmas albums is - was - George Winston's December. It is beautiful music for a cold snowy winter night, sipping Butter Nipples (Bailey's and butterscotch schnapps) by a fire. It is unplayable here. It just doesn't make the transition to the tropics where a "cold winter night" gets down to 70 degrees.

Even traditional Christmas carols sound slow and almost dirge-like here where the driving dance rhythm of salsa is king.

So many of our Christmas traditions come from Northern Europe: England, Ireland, northern France, the Netherlands, Germany and Scandinavia. Places where the longer days after the solstice held the promise of spring. Where an evergreen tree in the otherwise bleak and barren landscape was something of a miracle. (Curious that our traditions come from northern Europe and not the Middle East where Jesus was actually born. Then again, maybe it's not all that surprising. So many of our "Christmas" traditions have deep pagan roots.)

Here, where we have the longest Christmas season in the world - Puerto Rico could be called "Christmas Island - it's green all the time. A pine tree, like the Australian pines down the road are an anomaly, an imported species.

If Christmas here is always a disconnect, this year it is even more so. It doesn't feel like Christmas. So many people on the island still don't have electricity - us included. We will likely spend Christmas Eve in the dark, no bright Christmas lights, just candles, flash lights and solar lanterns. Instead of humming Christmas carols, we'll listen to the hum of generators.
 

We put up Carole and Rolf's Christmas tree today. Carole said she wasn't going to put it up this year but a precocious four-year-old said, "But how will Santa know how to find you? You have to have a tree!"

So we put up the tree. The lights and sparkle made Carole smile. It came close to actually feeling like Christmas.

As I left for the night, Rolf was sitting in their TV room. He pointed at the tree. "It's beautiful, isn't it?" I said. Rolf smiled and he nodded.

Monday, December 17, 2018

MARIA log December 17 Day 85 Sunday

Blustery gusty winds and rain showers overnight.

Pretty much took it easy again today. I did go to Carole's and make pancakes for Carole, Rolf Jeremy, Anna, and Penny.

NOW Saturday, December 16

Amy and Kennedy and Kai are here!!!!

Photos to come. And I just realized that the date stamp on my little point-n-shoot camera has been off by a day for more than a year. Just call me observant.

Sunday, December 16, 2018

MARIA log December 16 Day 84 Saturday

Saturday, December 16 day 84

Still not feeling like myself but better that I have been. At least well enough to help with the horses.

Partly cloudy with passing showers. Kinda weird but it did make this incredible rainbow over the horses. First there was part of an arc of a double rainbow. Then we watched the res of the ribbon of the primary arc form itself across the sky like someone was painting it with all the colors at once.

It was incredible.

(Sorry no photos. I had some but I must have lost them when my old phone died.)

Saturday, December 15, 2018

MARIA log December 15 Day 83 Friday

Friday, December 15 day 83

Spent most of the day in  bed  Marie asked me how I felt. I said, "I feel like crap. Which is an improvement."

Today was sunny all day. I think.

Friday, December 14, 2018

MARIA log December 14 Day 82 Thursday

Thursday, December 14, day 82

I should be in Ohio right now but I'm not. I' home in Isabela.

Maybe I should have known; maybe I did know. All day yesterday I felt these little twinges. But I didn't fee bad. I wrote it off to too much sun.

On the way to San Juan the fever hit will full force. First hot, so I turned up the AC in the rental car. Then I started to chill. Turned down the AC. Still cold. Turned up the heat.(!) I started to shiver, Turned the heat up to high. The chills, the shivering were so intense, so violent, so uncontrollable, so non-stop, I was actually afraid it wasn't fever chills at all, but some kind of neurological event. Alone and truly afraid, I drove on through the tropical night with the heat blasting on high, shivering like I was naked in a snowstorm.

When I got to San Juan, I sat in the parking lot of the car rental place, waiting for the chills to subside. I got out of the car, nauseous, dizzy. I staggered like a drunk into the office and told the guy I was suppose to leave the car there and take their shuttle to the airport but I wasn't going to, I was going back to Isabela.

I called Elaine to tell her I wasn't coming and why. There followed a fairly tense conversation about why I would not get a room or stay in a hotel in San Juan, why for my own psyche I need to be home in Isabela.

I got home and in my own bed about 1:30 a.m. The drive back from San Juan wasn't nearly as tense, intense or interesting as the drive over.

I went to the doctor this morning. Basically it's an undetermined tropical fever: bed rest, lots of fluids, you know the drill.

So here I am in bed instead of helping Elaine and playing with my grandkids. Humbug!

Most sunny today with these occasional odd light sprinkles out of nowhere.

Thursday, December 13, 2018

MARIA log December 13 Day 81 Wednesday

Wednesday, December 13, day 81

This is my last day on the island for a couple of weeks. I leave tonight for two weeks in Ohio and I hope Michigan. Most of the day was spent cleaning up around the house for Albert. He is staying with Oz and Mylo and watching the house.

I did learn something new today about Puerto Rican culture. We, i.e., mainlanders/norte americanos/gringos often bemoan the lines in Puerto Rico We joke that Puerto Ricans must like to stand in line, that standing in line is a national pastime. A couple of weeks ago I wrote about "the importance of queues in human social interaction" as a possible subject for a sociology thesis project. Today I learned there is much more to queues than the punchline to a joke.

Marie's neighbor, a woman named Leticia, just returned to the island after six weeks on the mainland. Please understand: Leticia is a smart, educated, well-traveled woman. She is an attorney and a judge.

She told Marie, "I was so confused over there. There were no lines."

No lines at the grocery store. No lines in the banks. No lines in restaurants.

The lack of lines made her fearful, afraid for the success and prosperity of those businesses. No lines meant no - or at least too few - customers. Without customers, without lines of customers - the businesses would fail. In her mind, and apparently in the minds of many Puerto Ricans, lines equal a thriving, viable, successful business.

She did find a Puerto Rican restaurant that had - in addition to rice-and-beans - a line! Now this was a successful business!

NOW: This year I'm not going to Ohio. Amy and the kids are coming here! YAY! They get here in the middle of the night Saturday.

Marie found out later from other people who know this restaurant that the line was contrived, set up by the owner. He knows his island culture! Inside seating and service were as efficient as any mainland restaurant.

So queues in Puerto Rico are more that social events, more than an old skool version of Facebook. They are also signs of success.  Who knew? Now we all do.

No rain today. Off to Carole's and then to San Juan for a middle-of-the-night flight.